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brissy... the one i had a moment of zen

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Little Tokyo, apparently Brisbane's first Japanese restaurant, is seated at Bowen Street, Spring Hills, north of Brisbsane city. Run by Michiko O'Brien and a hoard of Japanese chefs, its unassuming plain exterior, Japanese-inspired house has sat at the same location for 41 years.

I said 'unassuming' and 'plain' because I nearly missed the restaurant when the cab drove by. Aussies prefer to knock off at 5p.m. exact (restaurants included). Thus I was delighted when a Japanese-accented voice assured me that Little Tokyo stays open till late.

"How late?" I asked.

"What time are you coming?"

"Hmm... at about 9pm?"


"9? 9pm? oh.. haha. Yes, you come."


To make sure, I called earlier in the evening to book a place (which is utterly redundant since there was only me, myself and myself). But once at the door, I wasn't sure if the restaurant was open for business; the doors were closed. No neon lights to indicate 'OPEN' nor were there any staff at the door to greet you (which is what one would expect of a critically acclaimed authetic Japanese restaurant). I got the cab driver to wait around while I peek into the doors to see if it's really open. The heavy doors commanded quite a bit of effort. I saw a few people in there so hurriedly I went back to the cab to pay my fare.

"Is it open?" the driver was concerned.

"Yes yes, got angmohs in there." Oops.

Little Tokyo serves two types of experience - 'shoes-on' and 'shoes-off'. Teppanyaki (the 'shoes-on' area) is more favoured by the angmohs (judging from the loud
boisterous stmosphere). "Shoes-off" area - the Sukiyaki House is separated from it by a lounge area. I came with only one intention - sashimi. So a nice English-speaking fella showed me the way to the Suyiyaki House, just across the central lounge area.

The lounge area

The Sukiyaki House

Lined with large tatami mats and warm wood interior, the Sukiyaki House is quieter and more 'refined'. I looked around for expat Japaneses gently sipping their warm Sake reminsicing about home and family. But there were none. In fact I was alone. And may I add: there were no Japanese customers that night.

Anyways, I always like tatami-style 'legs under the table' seating arrangements. Couldn't get any more authentic than that.While I basked in the quiet subdued atmosphere, I also found it a tad straining on my eyes to read the menu under the yellow dim lights. Romantic, but impractical. Very quickly, a kimono-clad middle-age lady greeted me and took my order. She must be the lady who took care of my enquiries over the phone - that accent. Can't miss it.

Sashimi. Checked.
Tokyo Oysters. Checked.

"Can I have Shabu Shabu for one person please?" I tried my luck.

"Oh no no... er.. two persons," Madame Butterfly insisted.

"Er... but can make for one person right?" I beamed my sweetest smile ever.

"Hahaha no no. You take something else," she laughed at me.

Damn.

So I asked for a Tempura main course. And of course, my second favourite Japanese dessert - green tea ice cream (because sesame ice cream is not on the menu). I was rather pleased with my order and was tempted to finger-point more items on the menu, but Madame Butterfly stopped me.

I can eat. Why are you stopping me?

So anyhow, I stopped at four and asked to keep the menu in case I want more. Has nobody ever done the same? Because Madame Butterfly was slightly taken aback, then she laughed at me, "Hahaha hohoho You must be hungry,"

-_-" You haven't seen me eat.

Sashimi... raw tuna, salmon and scallops

Tokyo Oysters... Fried oysters ringed with bacon with special dipping sauce

Tempura Main Course... Prawns with sliced fish and mixed vegetables, deep-fried in a light batter

Perhaps Madame Butterfly's concern is not invalid. When the Tempura main course arrived, my jaws nearly dropped. So huge was the serving (with rice and soup somemore), I think Singapore's usual serving probably only one-third the size of - what I call - 'that thing' on my table. The photo above simply doesn't do it justice. It's HUGE.

I have no idea why I didn't order the Ishiyaki (thin grilled beef sliced on hot rock plate). It is said that only Little Tokyo serves it in Queensland.
Instead of charcoal barbecuing technique, Ishiyaki is an anicent method of grilling using heated river stones, from which its minerals give meat (mainly beef and seafood) the best flavour without the bitter taste of charcoal. Very exotic, but I somehow missed it on the menu. Bah. Maybe next time.

I took my time savouring every inch of every piece of food I popped into my mouth. After all, I wasn't in a hurry. Maybe I was high on green tea, I thought I saw geishas skillfully twisting and turning their little fans as retro music (I could only assume the singer was crooning about life, love, death or war) was softly piped into the room.

Madame Butterfly was pretty quick - clearing my empty plates and serving the next dish without much waiting. And because the chap who kept my shoes before I stepped into the room, commended on my (quote) 'great-looking shoes' (unquote) and called for a cab for me as I was about to leave, I think he has provided absolutely great service.

Actually, on hindsight, I suspect Madame Butterfly is actually Michiko O'Brien, the founder/boss of Little Tokyo. After googling the restaurant since I returned to Singapore, it seems that the description of the lady boss fits flawlessly on Madame Butterfly. I wanted to take a picture with her, for memory's sake (plus her kimono was pretty too), but she was constantly shuttering between the kitchen and the clueless angmohs who didn't know how to shabu shabu the beef in the boiling soup.

How wonderful if I had some friends with me. Then we could order Shubu Shabu and down the meat with beer. Oh well, chronicles of a lone traveller.

The food is great. The price is paid. This is not your average Sakae Sushi. Not even a Sushi Tei. But I guess I didn't regret patronising this restaurant. God knows how much more I'd have to pay if I had gone to Sono, another widely raved-about Japanese restaurant at Queens Street. A Top-Ten restaurant in Queensland. There wouldn't be any Madame Butterfly providing me comic relief in between my sashimi and tempura. The suit-clad staff in Sono wouldn't notice and complement my 'great-looking' heels. Makes a whole lot of difference, you know.

Little Tokyo

85 Bowen Street, Spring Hill
Brisbane, Queensland

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